L'Art de la Pâtisserie Week 2
Monday
Chef Joel Reno gave our class, stream 3, another tour of the kitchen and storage areas. Kitchen 3, which we are using for the week, is usually used for continuing education classes. It has nine table set-ups and is located off of the main area on the second floor. We were each assigned a partner (Daniella) and a table (eight). The kitchen has a dish area, common storage racks, a convection oven with vent. When the bar is pushed in the vent is open. Then the bar is pulled forward the vent is closed. The heavy dark European pans are heavy but distribute heat very well and are great for macarons.
We are to look at organization with new eyes. Do not sit on tables, windowsills or bins. Do not put anything on the floor. Absolutely no drinks are allowed in the kitchen. There is a water cooler and cups in each kitchen. The coolers and freezers are divided into AM and PM classes.
Garbage bags should be double lined so they don't drip and we will learn how to use the garbage disposal later. Most people know how to mop, but if not, ask.
Labeling is done with masking tape and cut with scissors. Each label must have the stream, name and table number on it. Each partner has to scale 17 of the same item. 16 for the students and 1 for Chef (labeled C). Labels go on the top of the deli cup, split scales have to be labeled 1 of 2 or 2 of 2 and should be legible.
Communicate if you are headed to storage or to the freezer so that efficiency reigns. Each time the freezer is opened, the products become unstable.
Chef Joel likes to keep his demos shorter so that he can observe students working at their table. We use induction burners and they are very reliable and distribute heat evenly. Our hand blenders are very powerful. They can create a lot of bubbles in things where it might not be desirable. For a ganaçhe, for example, holding the blender off center and using a lower center will aerate it less and create fewer bubbles.
All of our scaling is done in grams. If an ingredient calls for .5 grams, we are to scale up or down but keep it consistent. The digital thermometer is accurate and convenient. We are to have a set-up which includes an upside down deli cup and a deli cup filled with water. This holds the body of the thermometer up and provides a place for sticky probes to go after they are used.
Mexican vanilla beans hold up to high heat. Tahitian beans don't like heat but they make a nice finishing bean. Vanilla extract is not used as often as vanilla bean paste. Vanilla bean paste has the actual beans from inside the pod, which looks nice, but is also emulsified and slightly sweetened. Joel might use 90% paste and then 10% vanilla bean to make a really delicious vanilla dessert. Vanilla beans are great in cold infusions.
Cracking eggs should be done efficiently. Develop a system so that you can get better at it. Do not use hands to separate eggs. Crack eggs on paper towel to keep the table clean. Crack all eggs, hand blend and then scale. You can scale half an egg.
Our sani bucket is hot water, two drops of Dawn and a scrubby sponge. We are to wipe everything down with the sani water and then dry it with paper towels. Dishes are dried with paper towel.
Duties:
Ask Joel questions about our product, not Kelly (the intern).
Chef Joel demonstrated white and dark chocolate striped cigarette cookies. This included a chocolate tempering lesson using the seeding method. Schedule time to work with chocolate and practice hand tempering.
The class waits in the back hall while the two partners mop the floor.
Class is dismissed.
Tuesday
Demo:
30ºB/60% (Simple syrup). French 30 baume syrup. 1350g sugar to 1000g water. It's a creative outlet to flavor.
Larger grain sugar will dissolve more slowly. Make sure all the sugar is completely dissolved.
Low heat, stir occasionally, don't scrape ladle on side of pan (use a deli cup filled with water) and once all the sugar is dissolved, simmer for 10-20 seconds. Store covered in the refrigerator.
Beurre Noisette (brown butter). Melting butter breaks down the emulsion of milk solids, fat and water. Melt the butter slowly on low heat. Cooking the butter evaporates the water and creates a sizzling sound. Keep stirring until the milk solids that have fallen to the bottom of the pan have started to caramelize and brown. The flavor should be nutty and not burnt. Pour all of the brown butter into a container to cool. If refrigerated, brown butter makes a nice tasting dough.
Egg Wash:
Egg yolks + milk + whole eggs + pinch of salt = egg wash
Hand blend, strain, refrigerate. Always put just used egg wash into a new container with old date label before putting it away.
Knife Skills:
2 Granny Smith Apples
1 lemon
1 plastic scraps bowl
1 plastic apple bowl
Apple peeler
New knives from our kit
It should take 15 seconds to peel an apple. Keep thumbs back and away from knife.
Complete cuts; brunoise, fan, julienne, wedge, medium dice, small dice and batonett.
We used the apples to make an applesauce that was cooked and puréed until smooth. This can be frozen and used later.
Table set-up:
Wednesday
Pastry cream:
Mise en place: half sheet pan wrapped in plastic wrap, scaled ingredients. whisk, spatula, appropriate size pot (large enough to allow cream to come to a boil and for steam to rise), plastic bowl and strainer.
In the pot - mile, half the sucrose, vanilla and butter.
In the plastic bowl - half the sucrose, pastry cream powder and right before turning on the induction burner, the egg yolks.
Cook on low, stirring occasionally, Whisk egg yolk mixture to aerate mixture and incorporate starch and sugar into the yolks.
Hold the whisk like a pen, stand up straight and be relaxed. This will reduce fatigue.
Bring mixture to a boil, turn off the burner, whisk well, less than half the mixture into the eggs. This tempers the eggs. Strain the eggs back into the pot and whisk until the mixture thickens. The mixture will get very thick, become homogenized, smooth and glossy. Stir, stir and feel the tension as it thickens. Put it back on the heat and boil for 30 - 60 seconds.
Pour onto the tray, smooth it out, immediately cover with plastic wrap and label it. Poke a few holes in the plastic and place in refrigerator to cool.
Endless spices and flavors may be steeped in the cream to create interesting and seasonal pairings.
Rolling dough:
Mes en place: Silpat, rolling guide, rolling pin, pastry flour and sheet pan.
Work fast. If the dough is too dry, check the recipe. It is most likely not the additional flour used to keep the dough from sticking.
Place in freezer. Cut shapes, place on parchment lined sheet pan, egg wash, drag fork or knife through egg wash in desired design and bake for approximately ten minutes.
We used a sanitary makeup brush for the egg wash. This is the perfect tool for applying a light, even egg wash coating.
Almond Cream and Frangipane:
Cream the butter on low, add TPT, pastry cream powder (helps smooth and hold together the frangipane together when it is baked), speed up the mixture until it is very smooth and lightens in color. Gradually and very slowly, add the eggs until smooth and the mixture is not broken. Slowly add rum.
Break up the pastry cream with a spatula (pastry cream should be firm and not weepy), add the pastry cream to the almond cream using the mixture or by hand.
almond cream = lighter custard texture
frangipane = denser texture
Streusal:
Streusal is a crumble.
Put flour, large grain sugar, cinnamon, kirsch and cold butter into mixing bowl. Pay attention while in mixes on low so that it does not pass into a creamed mixture. If at reaches the creamed stage, it can still be used but will bake more like a dough.
Wrap with plastic wrap and allow to dry out overnight in the refrigerator or freezer.
Switching out the kirsch for other liquors changes the taste and can be paired indefinitely.
Streusal is good on
Scale for tomorrow's recipes; Italian Meringue, French Meringue, Buttercream and Pâte a choux.
The biggest challenge today was the dirty dish situation. Imagine that everyone in your family is making their own thanksgiving menu at the exact same time. Imagine if a few people carried their dishes to the sink and left them there all day. The sink gets full and it is impossible for anyone else to wash their own dishes. In the end, instead of each person washing their own dishes, a few end up washing all of them. We received a lecture and instructions for tomorrow.
Thursday
Simple syrup experiment: Chef Joel took equal parts sugar and water simmered the first batch for 15 seconds, let the second reduce a little too far and added acid to the third batch. He is leaving them overnight for us to compare the crystallization of the sugars tomorrow.
French Meringue: raw egg whites + raw sugar. the raw sugar is used to lighten and dehydrate the egg whites.
Simple Icing: 10X, lemon and water is combined and poured over cinnamon rolls, muffins, pound cake, danish, Russian braids etc. If brushed on warm items, it firms up and becomes glossy. Lemon makes things pop, brings out the flavor and balances the sweetness. Lemon and water can be substituted with milk, vanilla, cinnamon, liquors...
Gluten Test: Using a dough hook, mix three batches of 500g flours to 300g water. Compare cake, pastry and bread flour. After the doughs come together in a smooth ball, place them in water and check on them periodically. It is obvious how the cake flour dissolves, the pastry flour gets very loose and the bread flour holds together and creates strong gluten strands.
Folding piping cones: Youtube and cake decorating books have demonstrations of how to fold a proper piping cone. Practice with newspaper, magazine paper, or anything inexpensive.
Meringue Delight (French Meringue): Must stabilize the egg whites. You don't want a soupy meringue. Egg white powder and cream of tartar strengthens egg whites and salt and vanilla flavors the meringue. This is used for lemon tarts, cookies plated desserts, vacherin and many other things. It can be tinted and flavored indefinitely.
In a mixing bowl.
Buttercream should be smooth, glossy, fluffy and light. Not grainy.
The dish situation was much better today.
Friday
Simple syrup experiment results: The first batch was clean and clear, the second batch was highly crystallized and the third, which had lemon juice in it, was thicker than the first batch but clear of crystallization.
Chef Joel gave a demonstration of dry caramelizing sucrose. Patience. Melt and liquify sucrose over moderate heat. Pulled caramelized sugar gets a beautiful golden color and remains pliable when an acid (lemon) is used.
Pâte A Choux (Puff Dough): Cooked dough. Endless flavors can be steeped in the milk. Can be fried, used for eclairs, cream puffs, savory dumplings, choquettes (small French cream puffs), gougères.
Have the mixing bowl and paddle ready
In the pot:
Simple execution of product is key. Chef Patrice is teaching our next two weeks on entremet (cakes).
Saturday
I just went to the the Green City Market in Lincoln Park and purchased the Green City Market Cookbook,which is full of recipes by Chicago chefs, farmers and customers. I wasn't surprised to see Wisconsin's own Growing Power in the first booth at the entrance. The market was packed with people and dogs and a chef demonstration was in progress.
I took the bus for the first time.
Chef Joel Reno gave our class, stream 3, another tour of the kitchen and storage areas. Kitchen 3, which we are using for the week, is usually used for continuing education classes. It has nine table set-ups and is located off of the main area on the second floor. We were each assigned a partner (Daniella) and a table (eight). The kitchen has a dish area, common storage racks, a convection oven with vent. When the bar is pushed in the vent is open. Then the bar is pulled forward the vent is closed. The heavy dark European pans are heavy but distribute heat very well and are great for macarons.
We are to look at organization with new eyes. Do not sit on tables, windowsills or bins. Do not put anything on the floor. Absolutely no drinks are allowed in the kitchen. There is a water cooler and cups in each kitchen. The coolers and freezers are divided into AM and PM classes.
Garbage bags should be double lined so they don't drip and we will learn how to use the garbage disposal later. Most people know how to mop, but if not, ask.
Labeling is done with masking tape and cut with scissors. Each label must have the stream, name and table number on it. Each partner has to scale 17 of the same item. 16 for the students and 1 for Chef (labeled C). Labels go on the top of the deli cup, split scales have to be labeled 1 of 2 or 2 of 2 and should be legible.
Communicate if you are headed to storage or to the freezer so that efficiency reigns. Each time the freezer is opened, the products become unstable.
Chef Joel likes to keep his demos shorter so that he can observe students working at their table. We use induction burners and they are very reliable and distribute heat evenly. Our hand blenders are very powerful. They can create a lot of bubbles in things where it might not be desirable. For a ganaçhe, for example, holding the blender off center and using a lower center will aerate it less and create fewer bubbles.
All of our scaling is done in grams. If an ingredient calls for .5 grams, we are to scale up or down but keep it consistent. The digital thermometer is accurate and convenient. We are to have a set-up which includes an upside down deli cup and a deli cup filled with water. This holds the body of the thermometer up and provides a place for sticky probes to go after they are used.
Mexican vanilla beans hold up to high heat. Tahitian beans don't like heat but they make a nice finishing bean. Vanilla extract is not used as often as vanilla bean paste. Vanilla bean paste has the actual beans from inside the pod, which looks nice, but is also emulsified and slightly sweetened. Joel might use 90% paste and then 10% vanilla bean to make a really delicious vanilla dessert. Vanilla beans are great in cold infusions.
Cracking eggs should be done efficiently. Develop a system so that you can get better at it. Do not use hands to separate eggs. Crack eggs on paper towel to keep the table clean. Crack all eggs, hand blend and then scale. You can scale half an egg.
Our sani bucket is hot water, two drops of Dawn and a scrubby sponge. We are to wipe everything down with the sani water and then dry it with paper towels. Dishes are dried with paper towel.
Duties:
- Sweep - sweep and mop everything. Deep clean day includes the storage room.
- Trash & paper towels - empty trash bins in basement dumpsters and replace paper towel stores.
- Oven, microwave and sink - use sponge from sani bucket to clean everything down.
- Community restock - restock community rack.
- Mopping - this gets done last after everyone has left the kitchen. Deep clean includes storage room.
- Iron Ox - wiping down coolers and freezers. Use gloves. One cleans while the other finishes with a paper towel. Deep clean includes oiling cutting boards.
Ask Joel questions about our product, not Kelly (the intern).
Chef Joel demonstrated white and dark chocolate striped cigarette cookies. This included a chocolate tempering lesson using the seeding method. Schedule time to work with chocolate and practice hand tempering.
The class waits in the back hall while the two partners mop the floor.
Class is dismissed.
Tuesday
Demo:
30ºB/60% (Simple syrup). French 30 baume syrup. 1350g sugar to 1000g water. It's a creative outlet to flavor.
Larger grain sugar will dissolve more slowly. Make sure all the sugar is completely dissolved.
Low heat, stir occasionally, don't scrape ladle on side of pan (use a deli cup filled with water) and once all the sugar is dissolved, simmer for 10-20 seconds. Store covered in the refrigerator.
Beurre Noisette (brown butter). Melting butter breaks down the emulsion of milk solids, fat and water. Melt the butter slowly on low heat. Cooking the butter evaporates the water and creates a sizzling sound. Keep stirring until the milk solids that have fallen to the bottom of the pan have started to caramelize and brown. The flavor should be nutty and not burnt. Pour all of the brown butter into a container to cool. If refrigerated, brown butter makes a nice tasting dough.
Egg Wash:
Egg yolks + milk + whole eggs + pinch of salt = egg wash
Hand blend, strain, refrigerate. Always put just used egg wash into a new container with old date label before putting it away.
- Pâte Sablée Amande (Almond Sablée Dough):
- Room temp butter, add vanilla paste to give vanilla longer contact with the butter (butter absorbs flavors) but do not aerate the butter.
- Add sifted 10X (confectioner's sugar).
- Add almond powder (meal, flour).
- Add blended eggs slowly.
- Add 25% of pastry flour until smooth.
- Add rest of pastry flour until under combined.
- Finish with spatula.
- Wrap dough in plastic wrap, label and freeze overnight.
Knife Skills:
2 Granny Smith Apples
1 lemon
1 plastic scraps bowl
1 plastic apple bowl
Apple peeler
New knives from our kit
It should take 15 seconds to peel an apple. Keep thumbs back and away from knife.
Complete cuts; brunoise, fan, julienne, wedge, medium dice, small dice and batonett.
We used the apples to make an applesauce that was cooked and puréed until smooth. This can be frozen and used later.
Table set-up:
- Left side - 6 full sheet pans, 6 half sheet pans, 1 cooling rack, 1 cutting board.
- Middle - 10 medium deli cups, 10 small deli cups, 5 large deli cups, 10 lids, tape roll, 2 digital scales, tams, 3 pots, 3 plastic bowls, 3 metal bowls.
- Right side - plastic wrap, paper towel.
Wednesday
Pastry cream:
Mise en place: half sheet pan wrapped in plastic wrap, scaled ingredients. whisk, spatula, appropriate size pot (large enough to allow cream to come to a boil and for steam to rise), plastic bowl and strainer.
In the pot - mile, half the sucrose, vanilla and butter.
In the plastic bowl - half the sucrose, pastry cream powder and right before turning on the induction burner, the egg yolks.
Cook on low, stirring occasionally, Whisk egg yolk mixture to aerate mixture and incorporate starch and sugar into the yolks.
Hold the whisk like a pen, stand up straight and be relaxed. This will reduce fatigue.
Bring mixture to a boil, turn off the burner, whisk well, less than half the mixture into the eggs. This tempers the eggs. Strain the eggs back into the pot and whisk until the mixture thickens. The mixture will get very thick, become homogenized, smooth and glossy. Stir, stir and feel the tension as it thickens. Put it back on the heat and boil for 30 - 60 seconds.
Pour onto the tray, smooth it out, immediately cover with plastic wrap and label it. Poke a few holes in the plastic and place in refrigerator to cool.
Endless spices and flavors may be steeped in the cream to create interesting and seasonal pairings.
Rolling dough:
Mes en place: Silpat, rolling guide, rolling pin, pastry flour and sheet pan.
Work fast. If the dough is too dry, check the recipe. It is most likely not the additional flour used to keep the dough from sticking.
Place in freezer. Cut shapes, place on parchment lined sheet pan, egg wash, drag fork or knife through egg wash in desired design and bake for approximately ten minutes.
We used a sanitary makeup brush for the egg wash. This is the perfect tool for applying a light, even egg wash coating.
Almond Cream and Frangipane:
Cream the butter on low, add TPT, pastry cream powder (helps smooth and hold together the frangipane together when it is baked), speed up the mixture until it is very smooth and lightens in color. Gradually and very slowly, add the eggs until smooth and the mixture is not broken. Slowly add rum.
Break up the pastry cream with a spatula (pastry cream should be firm and not weepy), add the pastry cream to the almond cream using the mixture or by hand.
almond cream = lighter custard texture
frangipane = denser texture
Streusal:
Streusal is a crumble.
Put flour, large grain sugar, cinnamon, kirsch and cold butter into mixing bowl. Pay attention while in mixes on low so that it does not pass into a creamed mixture. If at reaches the creamed stage, it can still be used but will bake more like a dough.
Wrap with plastic wrap and allow to dry out overnight in the refrigerator or freezer.
Switching out the kirsch for other liquors changes the taste and can be paired indefinitely.
Streusal is good on
- muffins
- cobbler
- banana bread
- fruit tarts
Scale for tomorrow's recipes; Italian Meringue, French Meringue, Buttercream and Pâte a choux.
The biggest challenge today was the dirty dish situation. Imagine that everyone in your family is making their own thanksgiving menu at the exact same time. Imagine if a few people carried their dishes to the sink and left them there all day. The sink gets full and it is impossible for anyone else to wash their own dishes. In the end, instead of each person washing their own dishes, a few end up washing all of them. We received a lecture and instructions for tomorrow.
Thursday
Simple syrup experiment: Chef Joel took equal parts sugar and water simmered the first batch for 15 seconds, let the second reduce a little too far and added acid to the third batch. He is leaving them overnight for us to compare the crystallization of the sugars tomorrow.
French Meringue: raw egg whites + raw sugar. the raw sugar is used to lighten and dehydrate the egg whites.
Simple Icing: 10X, lemon and water is combined and poured over cinnamon rolls, muffins, pound cake, danish, Russian braids etc. If brushed on warm items, it firms up and becomes glossy. Lemon makes things pop, brings out the flavor and balances the sweetness. Lemon and water can be substituted with milk, vanilla, cinnamon, liquors...
Gluten Test: Using a dough hook, mix three batches of 500g flours to 300g water. Compare cake, pastry and bread flour. After the doughs come together in a smooth ball, place them in water and check on them periodically. It is obvious how the cake flour dissolves, the pastry flour gets very loose and the bread flour holds together and creates strong gluten strands.
Folding piping cones: Youtube and cake decorating books have demonstrations of how to fold a proper piping cone. Practice with newspaper, magazine paper, or anything inexpensive.
Meringue Delight (French Meringue): Must stabilize the egg whites. You don't want a soupy meringue. Egg white powder and cream of tartar strengthens egg whites and salt and vanilla flavors the meringue. This is used for lemon tarts, cookies plated desserts, vacherin and many other things. It can be tinted and flavored indefinitely.
- Start whipping at slow speed, this denatures the whites before adding volume
- Add sucrose nice and slow. the finished product will not be all white as the sugars caramelize
- Turn the speed up a little
- Egg whites should get foamy
- Gradually increase the speed
- Add a little bit of sugar at a time (too fast will deflate the meringue and make it heavy not fluffy)
- Eggs need to be strong when the 10X is added
- Add sifted 10X in thirds, by folding quickly and gently. don't deflate the eggs.
- A wide and shallow bowl is better than a tall smaller bowl.
- Stop when there is not more powder in the bowl.
- Pipe using a round, star or St. Honoré tip.
- Dust with 10X, cocoa powder or coconut.
- Bake in a low oven until the are completely dry.
- Use appropriate pot size.
- water goes in first
- add sucrose
- heat slowly
- dissolve sucrose
In a mixing bowl.
- whisk egg whites and salt on low
In the pot.
- when sucrose has reached 115ºc, turn whites up so that they are full volume when sugar reaches 118ºc.
- connect pot to edge of mixing bowl and pour sugar syrup into egg whites.
- mix on high for 15 seconds to get the steam out.
- whip until cool enough to incorporate butter.
- fold meringue into soft, smooth butter.
Buttercream should be smooth, glossy, fluffy and light. Not grainy.
The dish situation was much better today.
Friday
Simple syrup experiment results: The first batch was clean and clear, the second batch was highly crystallized and the third, which had lemon juice in it, was thicker than the first batch but clear of crystallization.
Chef Joel gave a demonstration of dry caramelizing sucrose. Patience. Melt and liquify sucrose over moderate heat. Pulled caramelized sugar gets a beautiful golden color and remains pliable when an acid (lemon) is used.
Pâte A Choux (Puff Dough): Cooked dough. Endless flavors can be steeped in the milk. Can be fried, used for eclairs, cream puffs, savory dumplings, choquettes (small French cream puffs), gougères.
Have the mixing bowl and paddle ready
In the pot:
- Milk, water, butter, sugar and salt.
- Heat on low.
- Bring the mixture to a simmer and boil briefly.
- Turn off heat
- Dump sifted flour in all at once.
- Mix it until it's homogenized.
- Turn heat back on and mix continuously.
- Cook 1 minute.
- Place in mixer bowl.
- Paddle on low. cool mixture a little.
- Add eggs very slowly. dough should stretch between your fingers. not break.
- Put batter in bag with #9 round tip.
- Pipe shapes, egg wash.
- Sprinkle with sucre grand.
- Bake to dry out the inside of the shell.
Simple execution of product is key. Chef Patrice is teaching our next two weeks on entremet (cakes).
Saturday
I just went to the the Green City Market in Lincoln Park and purchased the Green City Market Cookbook,which is full of recipes by Chicago chefs, farmers and customers. I wasn't surprised to see Wisconsin's own Growing Power in the first booth at the entrance. The market was packed with people and dogs and a chef demonstration was in progress.
I took the bus for the first time.
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