The French Pastry School-Week Six - Wedding Cake

       L'Art de la Pâtisserie  Week 6

Monday

Wrapping flowers with floral tape:

• Cut floral tape with cutting tool.
• Start wrapping ½" below flower, push floral tape toward flower base and wrap thinly all the way down the wire.

Color dusting gum paste flowers:

• Less is more.
• You can always add more color but you can not take it away.
• Clean the brush by dipping it into cornstarch.
• Use clean hands.
• Pump brushes are a convenient way to distribute color on a larger surface.
• Steam flowers for a couple of seconds to hold in the color.
• Do not blow on flowers.
• Lighten dark dusting powder with cornstarch.
• The size of the brush depends on the fragility of the flower.

Daisy:

• Use pump brush to dust inside with super pearl luster dust.
• Dust yellow on daisy center.
• Dab green on daisy center.
• Dust green on calyx.

Blossom:

• Dust front of petals with pale yellow.
• Dust back of petals with brighter yellow.
• Dust green on the calyx of blossom.

Carnation:

• Lighten fuchsia with cornstarch.
• Use medium size brush.
• Dust the edges only.
• Dust green on the calyx.

Rose:

• Dust the edges of the petals.
• Dust inside base of petals darker to add shading.
• Dust subtle lines on back of petals to add texture by starting at base of flower and working upward.
• Make the bud center a little darker.
• Dust the rose hip and calyx green.

Rose Leaves:

• Using a generous amount of green, dust in the center, drag outward and then across leaf in the impression grooves.
• Spray lightly with confectioner's glaze to add shine.

Lily:

• Dust a small amount of green on base, wire indentation and up the sides and middle.
• Dust light purple on impression lines.
• Dust darker purple on middle of petal.
• Paint dots onto colored areas with edible marker or vodka diluted food color.

Orchid:

• Highlight the base and the tip with color of choice.
• Highlight ruffles with a darker pigment.

Flower Assembly:

Rose Leaves:

• One leaf is wrapped together with two smaller. leaves
• Line them up and curve them so that they look natural.

Orchid:

• Center surrounded by three flat petals.
• Ruffled petals underneath and between flat petals.

Lily:

• Line five stamens up with lily center.
• Tape three petals.
• Tape three petals underneath and between.
• Keep bottoms of petals level and do not overlap.

Posy:

• Largest rose in the center.
• Surround large rose with three smaller roses.
• Place daisy, carnation and blossoms in between and around roses.
• Add leaves directly below and next to each rose.
• Arrange flowers in a dome shape.
• Tape flowers together, cutting wires that are too long.
• Use needle nose pliers to arrange flowers naturally.

Tuesday

Covering styrofoam cake with fondant:

• Sand sharp edges off of styrofoam cakes.
• Sand in one direction to achieve soft, uniform edges.
• Break fondant into workable pieces.
• Knead fondant until smooth.
• Cover fondant pieces with plastic wrap when not being used.
• Run styrofoam cake under water and place on paper towels to soak up excess.
• Use a shaker to generously coat work surface.  This keeps fondant from sticking.
• Using a silicone fondant rolling pin or pvc pipe, roll fondant from the center outward.
• Turn fondant, repeat.
• Roll fondant onto rolling pin, lift and lay fondant over top of cake.
• Secure top and top third of cake to prevent tearing.  
• Work out pleats.
• Cut excess fondant away from the cake.
• Use fondant smoothers to smooth out the top and sides of cake.

Fondant will tear on the sharp edges of styrofoam cakes and sanding them prevents this from happening.  Fondant does not cover up mistakes, it highlights them.  Tall and small cakes are more difficult to cover that wider and shorter cakes.  You may use water, shortening or piping gel to make fondant stick to styrofoam.  Fondant on a styrofoam cake should be ½" thick.  Fondant on a real cake should be ¼" thick.  Use a dowel and rubber mallet to make a hole large enough to accommodate posy on top tier of cake.

Covering a cake board:

• Spread piping gel or shortening around the edge of board.
• Roll out fondant.
• Place fondant on board.
• Trim fondant to be flush with board.
• Place cake on center of board.
• Cut around cake.
• Lift up cake and peel center fondant.
• Place cake back down on center of board.

Fondant is expensive.  Learn to, "work smart."  Massa Ticino is a nice brand of commercial fondant.  It maintains elasticity, has a neutral flavor and accepts flavored oils (which do not change the color) well.  It is expensive but can be rolled very thin.  Satin Ice is also a commercial option.  It is less expensive and has good elasticity but is not flavor neutral.  The most available flavors are vanilla and chocolate.  They make red, royal blue and black fondant, which is virtually impossible to make in the kitchen, and is the best bet when these colors are requested.  

Albert Uster has pliable gum paste that has a good dry time and works well for modeling and flower making. They have a color of they year and keep them available for six years after their release.

Chef Rubber, Chef Master and Country Kitchen have good color gel that does not fade.

Pfeil & Holing has good tylose for making gum paste.

Wednesday

                 

Fifth Stage:

Floriol - 1220 W. Webster Ave, Chicago, Illinois

7:00am - 12:00pm  Owner: Sandra Holl    Baking Manager: Betsy Grzywa

I made an egg wash using egg yolks, a pinch of salt and cream.  This gets hand blended, labeled and refrigerated.  I juiced some oranges and buttered bread and muffin tins.  I then scooped savory scones.  One of the bakers walked me through the lemon blueberry scone mixing process.  They add lemon zest and buttermilk for a really moist and flavorful batter.  We scooped the scones by sprinkling frozen blueberries on top of the batter without mixing them in.  This kept the blueberries from bleeding.  The scones get topped with cream and coarse sugar.

A bread baker gave me a tour of the rooftop garden.  There were greens, herbs, peppers, cucumbers and edible flowers.  They use a passive watering system and it gets a lot of sun.  The plants were thriving.

Class:

Egg White Royal Icing:

• Clean mixing bowl.
• Sift 10x.
• Mix egg whites with cream of tartar.
• Paddle on low.
• Incorporate 10x slowly.
• Scrape side of bowl periodically.
• Paddle to stiff peak, approximately ten minutes or until royal icing is pure white.

Meringue Powder Royal Icing:

• Clean mixing bowl.
• Sift 10x.
• Mix meringue powder with water.
• Paddle until powder has dissolved and bubbles appear.
• Paddle on low.
• Incorporate 10x slowly.
• Scrape sides of bowl periodically.
• Paddle to stiff peak, apporoximately ten minutes or until royal icing is pure white.

Tartaric acid is in meringue powder and makes royal icing stiffer.  Meringue powder royal icing is better for string work.  Wet royal icing is best for flood work.  If meringue powder royal icing is to stiff, add water.  If it is too loose, add 10x.

For both types of royal icing, store in tall deli cup with plastic wrap directly on the surface.  Place a damp paper towel on plastic wrap and cover with another layer of plastic wrap.  Cover.   Egg white royal icing will last two weeks in cooler.  

50/50 Paste:

• Equal parts fondant and gum paste.
• Has good blend of elasticity and work time.
• 70% gum paste and 30% fondant is a good ratio for using molds.
• For every 100g of fondant, add 2 teaspoons of tylose to make gum paste.
• for every 100g of fondant, add 1 teaspoon to make 50/50.

Assembling the Cake:

• Use royal icing or tape to attach the tiers together.
• Make sure it is centered.
• Using needle nose pliers, place posy before decorating tiers.
• Rearrange flowers.

Fondant Border:

• Roll 50/50 paste into a log, flatten.
• Run through paster roller to #5 thickness.
• Lightly crisco work surface.
• Place 50/50 strip on work surface.
• Trim straight edge on bottom strip.
• Press infinity cutter neatly and cleanly.
• Lift border with pallet knife.
• Ruffle edges of border detail.
• Apply water on side of cake.
• Place border onto cake.
• Trim joint using a pairing knife.
• Frill as desired.

Always add a border unless no border is specifically requested.

Bead Mold Border:

• Roll 50/50 into snake slightly wider than the bead mold.
• Press 50/50 into bead mold.
• Use rolling pin over the dough.
• Scrap off excess 50/50 with a non sharp knife.
• Turn mold over, press bead border out with thumb while holding mold slightly above work surface.
• Pipe two long tubes for bead border to attach.
• Apply bead border on an angle, until border is at a 45º angle.
• do not press too hard.

Do not roll an uneven snake, under fill or over fill the mold.

Royal Icing Border:

• Keep piping bag wrapped in wet paper towel when not actively piping.
• Start on back of cake.
• Pipe a bead or shell border.  
• Pipe scrolls or dots on side of cake.
• Pipe writing in cursive for adults and print for children.

Thursday

Pâte a Choux for Croque em Bouche:

• Have parchment lined sheet pans ready.
• To avoid splash, add butter to pot first.
• Add liquids and salt.
• Fully melt the butter.
• Bring to a boil briefly.
• Pour sifted flour in.
• Stir, stir until starch cooks, paste dries out and a thin coating lines the bottom of the pan.
• Put paste in mixer bowl.
• Paddle on high for thirty seconds to dissipate steam.
• Mix on low.
• Add eggs very slowly.
• Scrape down sides occasionally.
• final consistency should be shiny, smooth and elastic.
• A slow drip in a V shape from the paddle means paste is ready.
• Using a #11 tip, pipe quarter size round shapes. 
• Avoid a pull tip.
• Pipe staggered.
• Use water to tamp down any stray points.
• Do not use an egg wash.  Caramel will give it a nice amber color.
• Freeze piped raw paste and bake at a later time or bake immediately.
• Bake 20 minutes with vent closed and 20 minutes vent open.
• Break puff open to check for doneness.  Inside should be completely dry.
• Use immediately or freeze overnight and flash bake when ready to build croque em bouche.  

Recipe has no sugar and more eggs so that puffs will bake in a round shape.  Using 50-50 water to milk makes pâte a choux less dense than using all milk.  Adding the right amount of eggs is up to the discretion of the cook.  Sometimes all of the eggs are not necessary and other times all of the eggs are necessary plus some additional warm milk.  If the paste is too moist it can not be saved and must be thrown away.  Puffs will bake 1.5 times their original size.

Croque em bouche has three elements; nougatine as the base or decoration, pâte a choux and a sugar decoration element.  Typically filled with pastry cream, creameux or praline and will stay at room temperature for one hour.  For decorative croque em bouche, puffs are left hollow.  Croque em bouche can not be refrigerated because the caramel will melt.  Pipe 80-100 puffs per croque em bouche. 

Nougatine:

• Have ready; small pot, two silpats. cutting board, half sheet tray with parchment, large knife, nougatine cutter and heavy duty metal rolling pin.
• Microwave almonds and keep them warm to increase workable time.
• Microwave glucose to release it.
• In a pan, warm glucose over medium heat.
• Add sucrose a little at a time.
• Add sorbitol solution.
• Caramelize mixture on low heat until golden brown color.
• Add silvered almonds and butter.
• Stir.
• Pour onto silpat.
• Cover with other silpat.
• Press down and flatten with rolling pin.
• Start rolling.
• Roll to thickness of the almonds.
• Transfer to a cutting board.
• Hammer down nougatine cutter.
• Transfer to parchment covered half sheet pan (will stick to silpat when cool).
• Cut scraps into 1" strips and strips into uniform triangles (18-20 triangles for 8" round).
• Scraps may be rewarmed in 325ºf oven for 2-3 minutes and rerolled.  
• Wrap nougatine in plastic wrap and store at room temperature.

Sorbitol works as an emulsifier and retains moisture which lengthens shelf life   Sorbitol solution is water and sorbitol.  Cut powdered sorbitol in half and add same amount of water to turn into liquid sorbitol.  4.5g of sorbitol + 4.5g water = sorbitol solution.  Avoid sugar crystals in the caramel as they weaken its structure and make it brittle.

Deep Clean:

We deep cleaned on Thursday instead of Friday.  My partner and I were on garbage and paper towel duty.  Deep clean includes cleaning the inside and outside of all the garbage cans and replacing the paper towel supply.

Verbal Evaluation:

Teamwork, product and organization were good this week.  My attitude has room for improvement.  After having run my own cake business for twelve years, I had to find a new way of looking at cake decorating.  Chef Megan taught techniques I have never used and the results were frustrating.  It was a challenge to stay motivated about a subject I have somewhat exhausted but I definitely learned new things and was pushed out of my comfort zone.

Friday

Isomalt Fountain:

• Oil ring molds.
• Warm confectionary funnel in 200ºf oven.
• Draw stencils on parchment.
• Place silpat over parchment.
• Add water to pot.
• Sprinkle isomalt in slowly.
• Melt gradually.
• Cook to 165ºc.
• Let sit until bubbles dissipate. 
• Pour into funnel over silpat.
• Pour ¼" thickness into rings.
• Make 12 wings by pouring isomalt into stencil shapes.
• Keep excess isomalt warm on low heat.

Isomalt is synthetic sugar.  It has half the calories and sweetness of sucrose.  Ingesting more than 50g a day may cause stomach upset.  It is good for casting and pulling sugar, does not turn brown like sucrose, is less affected by humidity than sucrose but is more expensive than sucrose.  When cooking isolmalt, use 10% of its weight in water.  More than 10% and isomalt will not set.  Less than 10% and isomalt sets too fast.

Isomalt takes color better and will not crystallize as easily as sucrose.  Pour isomalt over a photo to make an instant sugar showpiece.

Building Isomalt Fountain:

• Use isomalt to glue two bases together.
• Glue wings at bottom of center points.
• Make sure the wings are sitting up straight.

Assemble Nougatine Base:

• Choose uniform triangles.
• Remix meringue royal icing on low.  The cooler makes it dense and less pliable.
• Do not overfill icing bag.
• Glue triangles around nougatine circle using warm isomalt.
• Place triangles at a 45º angle using puffs to support them while they cool.
• Use small star tip to pipe royal icing around edges of triangles.
• Turn nougatine base upside down on a deli cup.  
• Using a #1 or 2 tip, pipe royal icing string work from tip to tip of each triangle.  String work should look like a basket handle.
• Allow string work to dry at least an hour.
• Turn nougatine base right side up.
• Glue nougatine base to cake board or cake stand.

Caramel for assembling Croque em Bouche:

• Microwave glucose.
• Add water to pot first.
• Add sugar all at once.
• Add glucose.
• Dissolve sugar.
• Turn up the heat and skim impurities from the surface using a skimmer in a bowl of water.
• Skim until it starts boiling.
• Use a clean brush and clean water to wash the sides of the pan.  Do not add too much additional water or the cook time will be greatly increased.
• Stop cleaning the sides of the pan around 115ºc.
• Cook to 160ºc.
• Add tartaric acid.
• Cook further to 165ºc.
• Turn heat down to low.
• Make an aluminum foil collar to keep sugar from dripping.
• Dry caramel hardens faster and gets browner.  This application uses more water to slow the brown.  Tartaric acid retards crystallization and keeps solution more pliable.  Equal parts powder cream of tartar and hot water make tartaric acid.

Assembling the Croque em Bouche:

• Dip each puff ⅓ into caramel.  Only dip ⅓ of the puff to prevent burning fingers.
• Dip ½ of puffs in plain caramel.
• Dip ½ of puffs in almond and sucre grande mixture.
• Using oiled cake ring to form the shape, attach puffs with hot caramel tightly around the circle.
• Use thumb to anchor the puffs while forming the first layer.
• Do not leave space in-between puffs on bottom two layers or structure will be fragile.  The bottom two layers must support the weight of the top layers.
• Do not use too much caramel as glue or croque em bouche will look drippy.
• Face almond/sucre grande toward outside.
• Alternate plain caramel row with almond/sucre grande row.
• Stagger puffs and push them together tightly without spaces.
• Glue three sides of last puff to secure row.
• Take the cake ring off after second row.
• The third layer is angled.
• Glue side that is furthest away.
• Glue and then slightly bend/angle toward inside.
• Do not angle them too much.
• Build evenly.

The cone shape is traditional.  If silpat is not available, lightly oil parchment paper.

Practical Instructions and Schedule:

Practical exams are next week.  Monday and Tuesday are practice days.  The written exam is first thing Wednesday.  Wednesday, Thursday and Friday are baking and presentation of product days.  We were given the recipes and rules for production and time.  


Final Thoughts

Do not pay a machine to do what you can do by hand.  Just get better at the task.